When I asked Nick Moyle about plans for the Kennedy 2008 my first question was “Will there be beers?” to which Nick replied, “Yes.” From that point my attendance was pretty much guaranteed.
Imagine my surprise and pleasure when I also learned that iconic NZ climber Lydia Bradey was to be the speaker.
Lydia has been (and still is) a heroine of mine since I began climbing, but being a mere young one in the sport I had missed out on all the drama associated with her ascent of Everest in 1988. This was the first women’s ascent from NZ and first oxygen free ascent for women of any country.
Using photos from the time of her first ascent with an international team (also including other kiwis) Lydia immediately had the audience listening intently. The main thrust of the talk was to contrast the difference between an expedition first as an amateur and now as a guide. This was helped by the route being the same – namely the Hillary Route. It rapidly became apparent how far the advent of technology has affected these climbs. The main difference now being the instantaneous communications and excellent weather forecast available. Also the commercial pressures and organisation of the guiding companies has led to a much higher level of comfort for the often ridiculously pampered clients. Many climbers find the 8000m show now a mockery of what mountaineering should be about, but there is no doubt that for professional guides such as Lydia guiding this peak is the pinnacle of their careers, and as such a serious challenge. The difficulty of getting a guiding placement for this task indicates the difficulty of the task itself and Lydia was the only woman guiding on the hill at the time.
Other highlights of the talk were the photos of Gary Ball and Rob Hall, some seen for the first time, as well as her description of her entry into mountaineering on a skills course run by Paddy Freaney.
Lydia continued to describe the various difficulties of the climb with special emphasis given to the unpleasant and dodgy fixed ropes that festoon the mountain. She pointedly contrasted these with the quality ropes fixed by kiwi guide Russel Brice on the North Ridge, and warned of a disaster yet to come…In addition to this the crowding of these routes itself was problematic with huge traffic jams of climbers causing dangerous delays high up, during the first summit windows of the season. Lydia experienced this herself on summit day.
At question time someone who must have had their head in the sand for the last 20 years asked Lydia for a brief rundown of her background in climbing. What followed was tour de force whirlwind recantation of her climbing resume, which kept the audience breathless for five minutes at least and charted numerous first ascents and expeditions across the globe. A fitting way to answer the question and to end the presentation.
Although I was moderately terrified I approached her in person for a chat after the talk and had a lovely conversation. Lydia is one of the all time characters of NZ mountaineering and her return to the big-time is to be welcomed by all. We at the CMC wish her all the best for her trips next year.
Guy McKinnon
Lydia being thanked by Nick Moyle for her talk.
